Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Hello, My name is Peter

Dear people, 
As a new member, I would naturally like to show you some of my work. Though I do not have much in 1/32 still below an example. This soldier, 
I recently painted, is a French soldier just after the revolution. My major interest is the battle in Russia (scale 1/72). Soon I will show you some of that.



Saturday, 26 April 2014

Never lower your Guard...

Since some courageous asked me how I paint my Toy soldiers,
 I would try to see to what little I have learned over the years by people much more skilled than me.
My level is what I need to give my figures a little bit of soul,
 I can not paint as if I were on a figure more defined and detailed as a model soldier, and I can not waste more time than necessary in the absurd search of a perfection that I have not and, quite often, do not even have my plastic subjects.
In this case, I am preparing three men of the Old Guard French, the Airfix brand is still a warranty and, despite his age, these grenadiers have yet expressive power and good definition, but to emphasize the steps that I have not photographed at first,  I have to start by two Russian Grenadiers of Armies in Plastic and the application of Primer rigorously matt black. I use the black primer (Army painter) because I can use it for defilade boundaries and keep my figures darker, but the color of the Primer is also a personal choice.

The first part of my work is to define the hands and face what I do with the Dark Fleshtone Game Color Vallejo, in the picture I also run a wash of dark gray on the shoes (you'll see the same passage on the boots of the Old Guard ) and a dry brush of lighter gray on plume, the Russian shako and the fur hat of the Frenchs. These steps (made ​​with Shadow Grey and Fortress Grey Citadel) if well executed not require a second pass and give the desired effect.

Now, we can move on to the real protagonists.

The boots and a fur cap are already defined. Here we also see the first light of the face and hands, performed with the Bronze Fleshtone (still Game Color).
As a basis for the pants and belts of accoutrements, use Yellow Ocre (I use in most cases Polycolor Maimeri, acrylic opaque real enough). Before The basis of the cuffs and lapels in red is given  with red ocher. For the parties gilded, the base is the Raw Sienna.
My work continues with the uniform (Imperial Blue + Black to dark) and the grays of the waistcoats of officer and soldiers. The base of the flap of the boots of the officer is yellow ocher and Raw Sienna.

Dietrofront! You can see the same bases distributed on the straps of the backpack, the golden parts of the sword and decorations and red ocher lapels. 
The plume of the officer is dry brushed with vermilion and sabretache was passed with a dry brush of light gray as the bearskin. 

The backpack has as its basis the Bestial Brown (Citadel) + black, the rolled-up blanket, Sky blue + black.

The next steps of color are given to veil the base. On the golden parts, after the Raw Sienna, it is passed the Pale Gold (always Maimeri); on dark gray, light gray more and more. The red ocher is covered by Vermilion. 
The face: After the bronze Fleshtone, is handed the Orange Brown mixed (50% and 50%) with the Dwarf Skins (Vallejo Model Color and Game Color) on the parts already highlighted. 
The next step dwarf skins mixed with Flat Flesh (50% and 50%). Then the lights are completed with just flat flesh. The whiskers are passages of gray illuminated with light gray. The scabbard is painted with black gray.
Pants: the yellow ocher is covered by a passage of beige with a hint of yellow ocher.
At the back, the backpack is lightened by increasing the yellow ocher, then a two-step increase in dry brush of light beige, while the deck is lightened before with Sky Blue after, completing the lighting of the parts out with Sky blue + white.  The golden parts are enlightened with Polished Gold. The sword is completed by a dry brush of Mithril Silver Citadel (you can use the classic silver).
It begins to glimpse the final result.
On pants, white + tip of beige on the parts in light. Third step on the reds with Blazing Orange Citadel to make red more alive. Is completed waistcoat clear, with dirty white with a touch of black.
On the straps, white with a tinge of yellow ocher.
For the rifle, the wood base has Burnt Sienna + black, the second step to lighten Burnt Sienna + tip of yellow ocher, still lighten increasing ocher, finish and illuminating the veins with Raw Sienna. The metal barrel is painted with a dry brush in Boltgun Metal (Citadel) and with Mithril Silver on the firing mechanism and  the tip of the gun.

The cockade on the Officer's cap has gray base, then brush up on white, with a hint of Blazing Orange inside.
For the uniform, another passage in Imperial Blue light on the parts, then the third step with Imperial Blue + a touch of white to brighten up the folds.
Finishing Touches for the buttons, black point then Pale Gold and point in polished gold.
Now, I can spry toy soldiers with Anti Shine Matt Varnish of the Army Painter

What do you think?

For the base I use bases in Forex that I play with Acrylic Coarse Pumice of Maimeri. When it is dry, I paint everything with Sap Green, dry do this a wash with Raw Sienna and, subsequently, a dry brush with Lemon Yellow, all acrylic Polycolor Maimeri.

Ready to fight! 
A question, but the Russians of the Armies in Plastic used in the early stages of coloration?

 Airfix against Armies in Plastic, all to see!

I close with my Russian against the four Voltigeurs Hat I'm preparing, 
I hope it was not boring even though I know that is certainly not everything was clear, 
 hope that at least the fun in painting has been seen!
and ... sorry for my english (but it was English?). 
See you soon 

Wednesday, 9 April 2014

Low Countries muster goes East

In preparation of Anglo/Russian invasion (1799) games set in the Noord-Holland region of the Netherlands, I try to gradually collect more and more troops that can play their part in that. Inspired by Massimo's tip on the use of recast Charbens mitre cap grenadiers (TSC, USA) I tried the looks of a 18th century Russian grenadiers on one of my Jean Hoeflers' Prussian grenadier of the Guard, foot figures.
Enthusiastic by the looks of the first figure I completed an About Bonapart style battalion of eight. An officer was engineered from an unknown brand figure with a Jean mitre cap on top. There's a musician (drums) coming up.
Figures were firstly washed intensely in a high grade detergent ('miracle blue' or 'blue wonder'). This removes paint layers as well! Dryed and sprayed with a plastic primer followed some minutes later by a light coat of GW skull white paint spray. Subsequently acrylic paint layers were build up to this result.
Photographs (Canon XM-2 3CCD video camera in 'card' position) were taken outdoors against a natural backdrop in my garden. As a source for the uniform colors I used the below illustration. I'm aware my officer has a somewhat awkward way of dressing given the period: I'm fine with that.
Known sources of grenadiers drums show them with wooden or brass kettles, rope tensioned skins and white hoops with black 'dog toothing'. Minor adaptation to a British grenadier drummer did the job here.

Sunday, 6 April 2014

Testing "Modern warfare" rule

A pacific battle. Americans with 3X the numberr ogf the Japanse. Tanks of the Japanese are also light tanks. 

 The concrete bunker proved to be a hard nut

 The machine gun in the wood/ground bunker kept firing and wiped out an infantry unit.
 A the end, numbers always count : the Japanese lines were overrun, but not without sustaining casualties.
To quickly going into close combat by the Japanese leaving the cover of the trenches speeded their doom.

Thursday, 3 April 2014

Current projects: 54mm WWII and ancients

Bussy writing a rule for WWI, WWII and modern, using the same dice as for About Bonaparte and About Caesar. Currently struggling with the armour factor. 
British infantry units and support groups

 And the German heavy animals in base colour
A scythed chariot